Showing posts with label Wine and Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wine and Food. Show all posts

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Tetsuya's Restaurant

Tetsuya's, a name that you will often hear if you are surrounded by a group of food loving friends in Sydney.  I have been longing to try the amazing French-Jap fusion food, which has such extraordinary praises and top reviews.  The waiting list for a table reservation used to be at least 6 months long, it is designed for the organises!  Luckily, our friends have asked us to join their wedding anniversary celebration and will arrange the booking.  Excellent!  Why not, let's do it!

A table of four was booked in January and the dinner was in March, the two and a half months wait was so itching; constant flicking of my diary didn't make it come any quicker!  A thirteen-course degustation menu with matching wine option (it wasn't much of an option for me, yes, wine please!) by the world-renowned Tetsuya Harada, WOW!

Finally, the day has come!  We arrived at the front door in our friend's Mercedes, a gentleman opened the door and told my friend about the complimentary valet parking service, how cool is that?  We got out of the car and were escorted to the restaurant's reception desk.  Initially, there was an issue with our booking, but we have finally sorted it out.  I will be totally disappointed if we would have to come back another time.  We were told to wait at the bar while our table was being organised, my friend ordered a sparkling wine, the Petaluma Croser Proprietor's Reserve 1999, her husband ordered the Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon 2002, my husband couldn't wait to try the special Pinot made for Tetsuya's and started with a red, the Felton Road Pinot Noir for Tetsuya's 2008 and I ordered the Delatite Dead Man's Hill Gewurztraminer 2008, thinking that it will be a slightly sweet and refreshing Gewurztraminer as a pre-dinner drink, however it was quite heavy and oaky, I wish I had chosen my friend's sparkling wine to start the night, good choice!

The waiter showed us to our table, it was right at the end of the corridor, a small room with no decorations except two abstract paintings on the wall.  Five tables of 4-6 per table were arranged in the room and our table was in a dark corner.  I wasn't too impressed since I expected even without a view, there would be more thoughts put into the decorations.  Never mind we are here for the food and wine.  Haven't seen or read the menu, we were all expecting surprises throughout the night!




We sat down and were served with warm bread and truffle butter, we had a choice between white bread and sourdough, and we all picked sourdough, of cause!  It was warm and soft with a nice crust and full of sourdough favour.  Yum!  If a bread roll can taste so nice, what else are in line for us?


Our first dish was the chilled Japanese pumpkin soup with white miso cream, the first sip was weird, I just didn't expect to taste a cold pumpkin soup.  But the flavour was nice, the miso flavour lifted the whole sensation, smooth but lively, I really liked it.  Then the pacific oysters with rice vinegar and ginger was served, it was very nice and refreshing, oil drizzled on top but it didn't taste oily as it was balanced out with the acidity of the rice vinegar and ginger.  This was an optional dish and I was glad that we have chosen to include it.



Our first wine came, the Tengumai 天狗舞 Junmai 純米 Bunseirokunen 文政六年 for Tetsuya's from Ishikawa, Japan.  It wasn't the best sake I've tried, it didn't have the Junmai aroma or flavour.  Is it light and easy to drink? I'll give it that!  The sake was served with sashimi of kingfish with blackbean and orange.  It was simple and fresh, the blackbean was quite subtle, not overpowering.


Next, we were served with the Twofold Riesling 2008 from Clare Valley and soft roast scampi tails with herb and citrus oil.  The wine was a lighter style Riesling, dry and crisp, matched so well with the citrus oil, nice!  The scampi was soft, perfectly cooked, I just wanted more!

Then it was the highlight of the evening, Tetsuya's signature dish, the salad of confit ocean trout with zucchini and non-pasteurised roe.  Firstly, the presentation was so pretty, the ocean trout fillet was shaped into a fish presented on the dish with a flapping tail!  Secondly, the flavour was excellent, confit but not too salty, and the refreshing salad balanced the flavour so well.  This dish was served with the Delatite Dead Man's Hill Gewurztraminer I ordered at the start of the night, since I didn't really enjoyed it, I asked whether I could choose something else.  The waiter gave me the wine list, it was so difficult to choose.  I've finally decided on the Massena Surly Muse Viognier 2007 from the Barossa Valley, and this time, I was happy with my choice.  It has a beautiful Viognier fragrance, a well-balanced medium body wine with long palate.  It actually matched quite well with the fish.  I guess now I understood that the Gewurztraminer should be served here and not as a pre-dinner drink.  Anyhow, I still preferred my Viognier!


Our next wine on the list was the Mountadam Pinot Gris 2009 from Eden Valley, a full body style Pinot Gris, with balanced acidity and sweetness.  It was served with fregolone with Queensland spanner crab and bottarga, the fregolone was quite nice and not too starchy, the rest of the dish just tasted like a fancy risotto.

A Margaret River Chardonnay was next, the Higher Plane Chardonnay 2007 served with raviolo of octopus with oregano and black olives.  It was a Chablis style, cool climate Chardonnay with oaky aroma, balanced mineral and stone fruit flavour.  The chewy octopus in raviolo was quite interesting.




Our first red wine was the Felton Road Pinot Noir for Tetsuya's 2008.  I have been waiting to try this wine due to my love for Felton Road (Felton Road post).  When the waiter was pouring the wine, I asked him how was this special Tetsuya's wine different to other Felton Road wines, he said it was a Felton Road style Pinot Noir.  Felton Road style Pinot?!?!  The block 3 is so different to block 5, Calvert is so different to Cornish Point!  Later, I found on the Felton Road website that winemaker Blair Walter created a special cuvee of Pinot Noir that suits Tetsuya's modern Japanese cooking.  The Pinot was served with breast of chicken with corn and foie gras, although the chicken breast was smooth and just cooked, it was slightly under for me.  The overpowering corn flavour did not serve the dish right, the whole dish was just full of corn taste and foie gras was lost.  Is this a good marriage of food and wine?  I don't know, but I quite enjoyed drinking the Pinot on its own, maybe I'd prefer the Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir if I had a choice!

The next wine was the Wanderer Shiraz 2008 from Yarra Valley, it was a cool climate Shiraz, medium bodied, very nice.  This was served with the sirloin of wagyu with braised leeks, sansho and soy.  My imagination of the dish and the taste was so different, I was expecting a peppery steak tartare-like dish or a sour ponzu wagyu dish, but the dish presented was very sweet, almost like a Korean BBQ marinated beef and the foam didn't really work for me either!

When our mains were finished, we were served with the Heggies Botrytis Riesling from Eden Valley.  It was a beautiful botrytis wine, with nice roasted honey aroma and not overly sweet. 

Our first dessert was banana ice cream with pineapple sorbet.  The banana ice cream has a strong banana flavour, like banana essence, which I didn't really like.  There was not enough pineapple sorbet, only a tiny bit on the bottom, a little more acidity from the pineapple sorbet could have balanced out the flat banana ice cream.  The second dessert was cannellini beans with mascarpone and soy caramel, it was not impressive, just mascarpone plus caramel!  Looking over to the next table, we saw a lady was served with a different dessert from the others, it was a chocolate fondant with hazelnut and fresh cream.  We asked the waiter whether we could change ours to that dessert, so the ladies had the chocolate fondant and the guys had the floating island with double anglaise of vanilla bean and praline.  I was happy with my choice, I definitely preferred the chocolate fondant to the floating island.  It was nice and soft with rich good quality chocolate and beautiful freshly roasted hazelnuts, the nuts were still warm when served!  The floating island (Île flottante) was a light fluffy eggwhite pudding, not too bad, at least the boys liked it!




Our last wine was the Seppeltsfield Cellar No. 6 Tokay from Rutherglen.  It was a beautiful Tokay to finish off the night.

The very last dish presented on our table was the petit fours, a last little surprise was brought to us in the chocolate macaroon.  As we were expecting a sweet filling, it was very sour at my first bite, then the lime flavour came out, and it was actually quite nice.  The friand was soft with a nice honey flavour, but my favourite was the green tea marshmallow, super soft and lovely.  I ordered a flat white to go with the petit fours, the coffee was amazingly nice and creamy!


In summary, there were a few highlights and a few disappointments in my Tetsuya's experience, the sourdough was definitely one of the highlights!  My husband has managed to eat four that night.  To me, for such an expensive dinning experience and delicate food served, I would prefer to have a Sommelier telling us more about the wines and 'food and wine matching'.  Throughout the night, the service was a bit rough, I could hear waiters running into each other.  Oh, and my menu has a misprint, the Tokay was left out of the wine list.  It was generally a nice food and wine experience, but will I go back?  Probably not!

Friday, January 15, 2010

Pinot Noir night with Quails

It’s always nice opening your Christmas presents, and it’s even more so if it is a gift that you want to get for yourself at Christmas.  This year we received four lovely Riedel Pinot Noir glasses for Christmas and our friends even remembered that we have some Cabernet/Merlot and Riesling/Sauvignon Riedel O-series glasses, so they brought us the Pinot/Nebbiolo O-series set to match them.  How thoughtful!  Ever since we have received this gift, there has been an itch to drink some Pinots, not to mention that I have recently came across a “quails in vine leaves” recipe that I wanted to try out.  Alright, two reasons are good enough to organize a Pinot Noir and quails night.

It took me a while to come up with the menu with the constant objections from my husband.  I have finally decided on this international dégustation menu.

* Prosciutto and Chorizo with assorted Cheese platter and Orange Duck Pâté
* Salmon and Dill mini-Quiche
* Steamed Scallop with Ginger and Shallots
* Salsa King Prawns with Garlic and Tomato
* Beef Tataki on Turnips served with Ponzu sauce
* Duck à l'orange - Roast Orange Duck breast on Quinoa served with Grand Mariner sauce
* Pan-fried Quails wrapped in vine leaves on Pumpkin Purée and Pomegranate served with Hazelnuts vinaigrettes

      Sides – Freshly baked Rosemary Focaccia,
      Garden salad (Friend’s dish)

* Lemon Tart with Pistachio (Friend’s dish)



Trying to find vine leaves in brine was very difficult, I have tried all the possible groceries but still couldn’t find them.  Then my husband accidentally saw some whole quails wrapped in vine leaves in a new butcher located in the Lane Cove Market Square, Hudson Meats that sell quality meats.  I asked them if they sell vine leaves on its own, they said they don’t but the kind gentleman gave me 12 leaves he uses for his preps for just 50c. I was so lucky and happy, and will definitely go back to this nice butcher for some meat next time!



With the meats marinated overnight in the fridge; quiche, focaccia and other preps done; table set, I pulled out my wine spreadsheet and looked through my Pinot Noir list.  I have chosen the Lark Hill Pinot Noir 2006 from the Canberra District and the Louis Jadot Bourgogne 2007.  I used to be a bit sceptical with the Canberra District Pinot Noirs since I knew how hot and dry Canberra can be, having lived there for a year, but I was totally surprised by the Lark Hill Pinot Noirs, both their entry level and reserve Pinots.  Seriously examining my spreadsheet, I have also decided to drink the aged Waverley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Museum Wine 1991, a delicate aged wine is on the same line as a gentle Pinot.  Then my friends arrived, they brought a bottle of the Ten Minutes by Tractor 10X Pinot Noir 2006 and a Geelong Shiraz, Shiraz by Farr 2003.  Ten Minutes by Tractor is one of my favourite wineries in the Mornington Peninsula.  When we visited the winery in 2008, it was overly crowded and we rushed through the tastings and quickly brought some wines, it will be nice just to enjoy the wine in our leisure tonight.

We looked at all the wines in front of us and spent 15 minutes discussing whether to open the white wines I have pre-chilled to start with, or go straight to our Pinots.  We have finally decided to go straight to the Pinot Noirs and sorted out the order of wines for the evening.  Our first wine was the Lark Hill Pinot Noir, it has a young bright cherry red colour, nice fruity aroma and soft tannins.  The gentle aroma was brought out nicely from the Pinot Noir glass, I have started to appreciate the shapes of the different wine glasses after attending the Riedel Glass Tasting Class, the differences they gave was amazing.
 



Very soon, the wines in our glasses and the ham and cheese platter were vanished, I guess it was time to start our next wine and courses.  We next opened the Ten Minutes by Tractor Pinot Noir and I took out the entrée trio – scallops, mini-quiche and salsa prawns.  This second wine also has a bright cherry red colour, stronger fruity and floral aromas such as beautiful apricots, more rounded and fuller body than the first wine.  It matched with the steamed scallops and salmon quiche nicely.  Having a group of fussy wine drinkers at the table, we have quickly noticed a problem.  We had the scallops and the quiche, then we paused … … we all mutually agreed that we wanted a bigger red with the salsa prawns, despite my intention to reduce the spiciness of my salsa prawns, it was still not good enough!  Therefore we decanted the Geelong Shiraz and tried, we thought it might need a little bit more time in the decanter, but we couldn’t resist the temptation and have started drinking it slowly.  It has a deep red colour, smoky and leathery aroma with a hint of damp earth on the nose.  A big wine, strong tannin and long palate, I have intended to come back to it in a few hours if there was any left!



Then I served the beef tataki followed by the duck à l'orange, an interesting Japanese-French fusion that I often found in restaurants.  We went back to finish off the Ten Minute by Tractor Pinot Noir and also opened the Waverley Estate aged Cabernet.  The Waverley Estate is a winery from the Hunter Valley that specializes in aged wines, the current vintage for their Cabernet is 2000.  This 20-year-old wine has a lovely tinted brown colour, leathery and earthy on the nose, and silky soft tannin, a very delicate wine.  I really enjoyed it with the duck.


         


By this time of the evening, we all needed a short break for our food to digest.  We continued with our food and wine conversations and had a little whisky tasting.  We tried the Talisker 10 years single malt and the Talisker 10 years limited edition single malt Scottish whisky that we brought back from the Isle of Skye when we visited the distillery.  The limited edition wine has again matured since I last tried it 2 years ago.  Lovely!







The last savoury course for the evening was quails in vine leaves and the Burgundy we saved till the end.  This was the first time I cooked quails and it didn’t turned out too well.  Nevertheless, this Louis Jadot was a fruity style with a bright red colour and lovely fruity aromas.  It was young and complex, from stone fruits to mineral favours, a very well balanced wine.



I noticed a little bit of the Geelong Shiraz left in my glass, it was time to re-examine the wine!  The spiciness of the Shiraz has now came out, nice balanced tannin, full body and long palate, very satisfying.  At this point, we seemed to have too many empty glasses on the table, and we wanted another red, so I have decided to open the Gapsted Ballerina Canopy Durif 2003 from the King Valley.  It has a dark red colour, very smooth and soft tannin, full body but gentle, a nice wine to finish off the evening.



Last but not least, after a long break to digest our mains it was time for dessert.  My friend made a lemon tart, a Neil Perry’s recipe, which has a nice zingy flavour to cleanse our palate.  I have pre-chilled the Deakin Estate Moscato 2006 from northern Victoria, a sweet wine with only 4.5% alcohol, perfect “Finish” for the night.  Nutty pistachio with sweet Moscato, yum!




Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Riesling and Homemade Dumplings

If you don't like overly sweet Riesling, we are on the same channel then!  I have a love-hate relationship with Riesling.  I used to dislike Riesling since most of the Riesling I have tried before was towards the sweet end.  I don't mind the German Riesling that is a little bit sweet but has very balanced acidity, it is a great pre-dinner drink on its own.  However, some Rieslings I have tasted are just sweet and flat!  But I have changed my mind after trying an aged Riesling that a colleague ordered at a work lunch.  When the wine was poured into the wine glasses, you can immediately see the nice golden orange colour with a touch of brown.  At first, I thought it was a dessert wine, I have never seen a Riesling in that colour.  Surprisingly, it has fruity aroma together with the typical petrol smell that a Riesling gives.  I thought the fruity character would have all changed to the aged characters, but it hasn't.  Such a wonderfully balanced wine, so smooth and complex! 

My love-hate relationship with Rieslings remains, as you have to drink this wine at the PERFECT time, it has a plateau phase where the flat and dullness comes in after the initial peak, but a second peak is right at the end.  I guess if you drink the wine within 5 years, you should still be in its first peak with nice fruity characteristics.  But the question is, when is it the good time for the nice aged complex characters to develop?  It will be different from wine to wine, I guess you just have to do it with a trial and error, frustrating!  [*If you happen to come across one at its mature stage, please leave the wine and vintage in the comment box, much appreciated!]

I was still in a lazy mode towards the end of my ten days holiday, but I still wanted to cook and enjoy a glass of nice wine.  Plus, the dumpling bugs were starting to bite!  So I've decided to invite some friends over to have some fresh dumplings and Riesling.  I pulled out a bottle of Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2009 from my collection (too bad, just can't wait for it to age) and decided to make some steam dumplings (Chiu Chow dumplings - 潮洲粉果) that Matt Preston, the food critic said on Masterchef that it is the most difficult Dim Sim to make!  I have got a traditional home recipe, quite simple, and the dough is also easy to handle.  Since I keep getting requests from my friends for my recipes... ... ok, ok, I'll put it here!  Hope this doesn't turn into a cooking blog!


For the fillings:
Prepare 125g of mince pork, marinate with a pinch of salt, pepper and a table spoon of sesame oil; 10 bamboo shoots (available in cans); 20 water chestnuts (available in cans); 1/2 carrot; 8-10 fresh mushroom (or pre-soaked dried mushroom).  Chop all ingredients into fine dice and fry the ingredients separately, then combine all the ingredients and add 1/2 cup of chicken stock, reduce completely.  Season to taste (you can add more salt or soy if necessary).









For the dough:
Mix 1 cup of wheat starch (
澄面 , you can get it from any Asian groceries) and a teaspoon of corn starch, slowly add 1 cup of hot water, little by little until all the flour combined.  (Note: you may need more or less water depend on the humidity on the day)

Then work the dough on a floured surface (using wheat starch), fold several times (careful, it's hot), then roll it out into a long tube, and cover with a wet towel (so the dough won't dry up).  Pinch a 20c coin size piece from the end and roll it into a ball.  Press to flatten it on a floured surface, sprinkle some flour/starch on top and roll it out with a rolling pin until the pastry is 2mm thick.  Repeat with the rest of your dough.

Put fillings onto the middle of the pastry, fold in half and pinch pastry together to seal.



Steaming:
Line a plate with baking paper, brush a thin layer of oil on each dumpling and space it out on the plate (be careful not to overlap the dumplings, they'll stick to one another).  Boil sufficient water in a big wok, and when the water is boiled, put the plate with dumplings on a wire rack in the wok.  Cover with a lid and steam for 6 minutes.  





When the dumplings were ready, you can see the fillings through the transparent skin calling out to us "eat me! eat me!".  We quickly sat down and took a bite, the pastry was chewy and the fillings were juicy with some crunchiness from the water chestnuts, yum!  Oh yes, back to my wine!  The nicely chilled Petaluma Riesling was fresh and crisp, a hint of citrus on the palate, so refreshing.  It is a perfect match with the dumplings with neither overpowering the other.  My favourite phase "Marinated in harmony"!  To my foody & wine lover friends, do try this combination and tell me what you think!


As you would have guessed, how can we be satisfied with just a bottle of wine!  We then opened the Little Wine Company's Merlot 2007, yes it's a Mer- lo-, I know what you're thinking, a straight Merlot, stops at mid-palate, how unsatisfactory!  This Merlot is so delicate, a nice bright cherry red colour, full of fruity aroma with soft tannins.  My friend described it as "perfume", spot on!  The smooth and fruitiness of the berries goes around and around in your mouth, who cares it stops at mid-palate.  Another great wine from the Little Wine Company, although my favourite is still the exceptional Sangiovese!